Flamenco Dancing and Rock ’n Roll

After spending the last three ports-of-call in Spain and Portugal, we’re currently bouncing along in the Atlantic.  Waves are cresting in the 15-20’ range with sustained 37 mph winds on the second day of a five day trek on our way to Bermuda. The ship is rolling and pitching and rolling and pitching, but that’s okay because the halls are lined with handrails. Makes typing kind of difficult, however, especially when you type with two green fingers.  Captain says the weather will be about the same tomorrow. OMG.

I wanted to get back to you for a final post before we sign off.  Looking back over the blogs, the trip has spanned extreme temperatures, varying geography, cultures, experiences, and over 5,000 years of history.  It’s been a lot of fun and a great way to celebrate our birthdays and anniversary.  Soon we’ll have to get back to reality, with Pat having promised to iron our sheets.  Ha!

The last three ports-of-call were general overviews of the town/countryside visited. These were interesting, but difficult to describe in any detail.  The visits only gave us a taste of what was there, leaving us wanting more and desiring to come back.

In Portugal, we opted to once again get out of the major city, Lisbon, and visit the beach and the town of Sintra.  Sintra’s prehistoric discoveries date back to the late Stone Age, but the period of history that most interests me is early Medieval Times. Get a copy of Rosslyn, Guardian of the Secrets of the Holy Grail.  Rosslyn Chapel, in Edinburgh, Scotland, is the Templars’ Chapel made famous by “The Da Vinci Code”. 

During the 12th Century the Milky Way charted the course for Orthodox Christian pilgrims from all parts of "Europe" towards the southwest and the Cathedral of St. James at Santiago de Compostela, Spain (north of Portugal).  This pilgrimage (the "Shell Pilgrimage") continues today. 

 By contrast the heretical Gnostic Christians (those seeking knowledge, i.e., emerging from the Dark Ages) and those aspiring to be knights made the "Alchemist Pilgrimage," aka the "Pilgrimage of Initiation" (a secret and esoteric pilgrimage) from the Cathedral of St. James at Santiago de Compostela northward through six church and cathedral sites in France (Gaul) to the seventh and final site, Rosslyn Chapel.  Each site was designated to teach and award a degree in a single aspect of moral courage, strength, and spiritual transformation.  Sintra (first of two photos below) was the purification site and staging area for initial training before starting the pilgrimage.

 Photo from the internet, Chartres Cathedral, the Fourth Degree was awarded only to the initiate who had gained control of his subjective process so that no unconscious prejudice could rule his action.  

Photo from the Internet, Rosslyn Chapel, the Seventh Degree revealing of all of the laws at work within human destiny. 
 

Madeira (Island), Portugal, home of Madeira Wine, was a 7-hour venture around a small, beautiful island.  Its mountainous terrain was about as high as it was wide. Bus drivers maneuvered their vehicles much like driving a sports car, pretty amazing,albeit scary.

Before we left the mainland, we had the opportunity to visit Cadiz, Spain.

Chief among our venues was a restaurant with Flamenco dancers.  It promised to be a little Disneyesque, but it was not.  It was a lot of fun.

                     

Pictured above the guitarist was really very good;  the singer's voice on the other hand was a cross between an Imam calling the faithful to prayer and Bob Dylan. 

Thanks for tuning in.  See you next week and maybe on a future blog.  
Bill and Pat.

Siesta Time in Spain …

… limits the desire for intense excursions.   

Barcelona ...

We gave up the crowds and the opportunity to once again see Antoni Gaudi's most famous work, the Basilica commonly known as the Sagrada Familia. 

Begun in 1883, we captured this photo of the newly consecrated cathedral during our 2012 visit. Even though it is still under construction, we figured it hadn't changed much in 5 years and decided to follow the locals outside the city and take it easy.  

In the countryside near Barcelona, we found the Torres Winery:

 

Torres is a family owned business (five generations, represented by the stone sculptures above).  With vineyards that occupy a mere 3,700 acres and being represented in 150 countries, it's hardly a mom and pop operation.

Environmentally friendly, they contend,  "The more we care for the earth, the better our wine."

For example, a rose bush is placed at both ends of each row of vines.  Rather than using pesticides, it seems roses are similar to grape vines, biologically speaking, but are more sensitive allowing for earlier detection of harmful bacteria, insects, etc.

Also, most electrical requirements are satisfied with banks of solar tracking panels spread thoughout the vineyards.

It's quite an operation.  Then came the marketing coups de gras of all coups de grasses ... the floor lights of a large gathering room gradually dimmed, then went completely black.  Surprisingly, one by one, the many glass-faced cellars  illuminated to show their contents and then went back to black.  Each revealed a different wine being stored at a unique and perfect temperature.  Makes me thirsty to think about it.

Next was wine tasting time.  I don't normally like fruity wines, but Vina Esmeralda was great.  Light, bright, fruity ... to heck with the food pairing, I'm thinking it will go great while sitting in the pool this summer.

Next, A Day at Sea ...

Followed by an anniversary dinner and an addition to our room ...

Followed by a Morning in Gibraltar ...

Surrounded by Spain, Gibraltar is actually part of Great Britain ...

 

and at its lighthouse the most southern point in Europe.

  

A beautiful terrace, British scones, jam, clotted cream, a cup of tea, and a fantastic view of Morocco across the Straight of Gibraltar seems like a pleasant way to spend a Sunday morning.  

Ya know ...  ya got ta do wha' cha got ta do.

We Made It to 50!

Emergency supply of Jack Daniels made necessary by excessive demand.  Supply side economics??? Nah.

French Tolerance Is Not an Oxymoron

About 30 minutes north from the port of Marseilles is the town of Aix en Provence.  Arriving on the outskirts of town our guide explained that the word Aix is pronounced “X” and means water/spa, and there are a number of these throughout France - Aix les Bains, Aix la Chapelle, etc.

About this time we passed the family home of Paul Cézanne who was born, lived (except for a brief period in Paris), and died in Aix. It was a beautiful estate that he inherited from his father in 1886 along with 400,000 francs ending his prior bohemian life style.  Bridging late 19th-century impressionism and early 20th century's cubism, Cézanne is clearly the favorite son of Aix en Provence.  This will become more meaningful, as you read on.

Cours Mirabeau is the heart of Aix. Anchored at one end by the Grand Fountain, it is a beautiful tree-lined avenue, with one side lined with wonderful terrace cafés and bookshops.

Down side streets on the other side, the mansions once owned by the French elite were prevalent. 

We wandered by these glorious late 18th century mansions, noting the grand entry gardens - designed to remove the building from the vulgarity of the city street, grand entrance halls - designed to impress the visitors and rear gardens - designed for living and entertaining. 

We stopped in front of one that has now been converted to a hotel (above).  It was a beautiful, bright but cloudy day, causing our guide to note that Cézanne really didn’t care what his subject was, he’d paint anything.  Rather, she went on, he was more interested in the quality of the changing light and how it affected the subject.

“Excuse me,” one of our herd interrupted, “Sha-zam?”

“Non, madam, Cézanne.  Paul Cézanne.”

“I'm sorry, Sha-zam?” she repeated in her best Gomer Pyle impression.

Then exercising a lot of tolerance and self control our guide said calmly, “Non, madam, Cézanne. His name is pronounced, seɪˈzæn, madam.”  

As she cowered to the back of the pack, I thought I heard Lee Greenwood singing in the background.  Really, you can’t make this stuff up.

The center of Aix is the old town, ringed by a circle of boulevards and squares. The medieval Aix was protected by a wall with 39 towers. It was later torn down to make room for the aforementioned mansions. 

A French sidewalk café and associated washrooms was next on the agenda. 

With my best high school French, I cleared my throat and said to the waiter, “Un chocolat et un café au lait avec sucre.” 

“Yes, sir. One hot chocolate and a coffee with milk and sugar.”

He seemed tolerant as well.  Sha-zam!

 

Holy Moly – That’s a Big Yacht!

We’re in Monaco now, with side trips to Eze and Nice.  After 28 days without rain, we hit one of my favorite places - and it rains.  Of course, that didn’t stop me from exploring.  Bill is still fighting a cough, so he stayed on the ship and I headed out on my own.

We docked at Monte Carlo and the town was setting up for the F1 Grand Prix in a few weeks.  That means the BIG boats are coming in.  One of the most unusual is known as motor yacht “A”.  The owner is a Russian billionaire – Andrey Melnichenko.  It’s quite stunning to see.  It cost him $190 million Euros a while back (about $228 million):

Real estate is costly, too.  The penthouse for this new building is $450 million Euros. 

Everyone knows the story of the Grimaldis and the marriage of Grace Kelly to Prince Rainier, so I won’t bore you with history.  What I found interesting was the density of the population.  There are 38,000 people in 0.75 square miles.  Traffic is crazy.

I also went to the medieval village of Eze.  It was small and charming, with cobblestone streets and small shops.

A final visit in this area was Nice/Cannes.  We rode on the Promenade des Anglais, the site of the 2016 Bastille Day terrorist attack by the driver of a large truck plowing into the pedestrians. Such a tragic event in a joyful place.

This pic is of the Negresco Hotel, owned by Mme Augier – the last private owner of a Riviera palace.  It is over 100 years old (Mme Augier is 94).  The pink dome at the top was allegedly inspired by the breasts of the architect’s mistress (although I’m sure I’ve heard that before about another French building, which says something about either the French or architects).  Singer James Brown spent a night chasing his wife at the hotel in a jealous rage, and guests have included a who’s who of the rich and famous.  Bill Gates wanted to buy the place and Mme Augier told him, “You’re not rich enough!”

I had a charming guide who is a horticulturalist and also kept up on celebrity residences.  We drove by the homes of Elton John, Bono, Tina Turner and David and Victoria Beckham.  The guide’s conversation would go like this:  “See these charming yellow flowers (using the Latin name) – I planted rows of those at the Rothschild gardens – and look up there!  It’s Sir Elton’s home.  I just love Sir Elton.”  Entertaining day.

Roma

My plan was to pull up Pat’s picture sitting on the edge of the Trevi Fountain 25 years ago and claim that it was the Fountain of Youth. 

Didn’t work. 

Apparently, we didn’t have electronic photos 25 years ago so it wasn’t in my computer.  As you view the Trevi, you'll have to use your imagination. 

 Last time in Rome we had a couple of days to explore.  While visiting the Trevi we threw a single coin into the fountain (one coin to return, two coins to find a new love, and three coins if you want to get married) so we made it back to celebrate Pat's birthday.

 On that prior trip, we flew into Athens, embarked on our first cruise ever, and woke up for our first port-of-call sailing into Venice on the morning of our 25^th Anniversary.   

 We sailed around Italy and found our way to Rome after twelve days.  Twenty-five years later, I've discovered that  we’ve changed a little, but Rome, not so much.

This time our excursion of choice was a whirlwind panoramic view of Rome with some free time at the end to enjoy a birthday lunch of pizza margarita, pasta carbanara, and a few glasses of wine at one of Rome's many, hole-in-the-wall restaurants.  Fantastic! 

     Some old pics will remind you of the fabulous city it is …

 The Colosseum

The Arch of Constantine

Trajen's Column

Monument to Vitoria Emmauele II

St. Peter's Basilica,

and its interior. 

Greece – The Peloponnese, From Athens to Sparta Part 2

A stop in the port city of Gythion, Greece was next on the agenda.  We’re now exploring the west side of the Peloponnese overlooking the Ionian Sea.  

Pat told me the last blog was "pretty heavy."  So I’ll make it a point to lighten up with the Roman Legions and Sparta infantry looming large. First stop …

MYSTRAS

This medieval town developed around 1250 AD and overlooked ancient Sparta.  Although Mystras was eventually abandoned, what remains is a spectacular UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Located about 30 mile north of Gythion, we made our usual bus trek around mountainous terrain past Sparta to our destination.  Sitting in the back row in the middle gives you a unique perspective through the windshield.  Wish I could have captured it as a movie. That way all of you too could have enjoyed the swaying ... the side to side to side to side to side … motion of the uphill climb, sans the many bumps.

Mystras is a site of ancient fountains, great vaulted halls and fine frescoes which depict various aspects of this Byzantine town.

Across the valley you can see the current town of Sparta.

SPARTA

As far as ancient Sparta goes, I’m going to asked that you engage the imagination you enjoyed as a child.  Only a few remains and a statute of Leonidas mark the spot of the once great and leading power of Greece. 

It seems Sparta’s ruins were not embellished and not worth the cost of much excavation and restoration … they were after all – “spartan.”

As much as the Athenians loved the humanities, the ancient Spartans loved (or at least prepared themselves for) war. Young boys were conscripted into the infantry at age 6 to learn the science of war.  If that isn’t tragic enough, the guide reported that a high rock across the valley was where the children with mental or physical disabilities were cast off.  How ‘bout that for lightened up.

I mentioned in the prior blog that Sparta was victorious in the Peloponnesian Wars against Athens.  It was not so lucky against the invading Romans, however, and lost its political stature and independence during the Roman conquest of Greece in 146 BC.  This once powerful city state went into decline and with many of its citizens moving to Mystras during the Middle Ages never emerged again.

Tomorrow we're in Rome.  So under advice of counsel I'll talk about La Dolce Vita.